Cuckoo or Gypsy?
There are different schools of thought
around the subject of cuckoo brewing and I’m firmly on the fence, with a pint
in hand. Surely it should just be about good tasting beer? Now I understand the
importance of the ingredients and the provenance of a beer as key deciding
factors in a drinker’s choice. But if you found out that the brewer didn’t use
his own kit (or blimey, hasn’t a commercial kit at all) a purchase declining
factor?
In brewing terms this behind the
scenes camaraderie is an appealing part to the industry for me. If one brewer
has space and a shared sensibility it’s logical to hire out this excess
capacity to another like-minded brewer. Often this is a mutually beneficial
relationship; enabling entry to the brewing game for a new start up for
instance. Perhaps the sense of freedom from the day to day running of a
production facility enables a brewer more room to concentrate on developing,
experimenting and honing their beery ideas?
Sheffield’s own gypsy brewer, Dave
Szwejkowski from Steel
City Brewing, finds this
route a way to, “brew what we like”, which means one off experimental big
hopped flavoured beers. Steel City Brewing has been going over 4 years using
only breweries based in Sheffield such as The
Brew Co., Little Ale Cart and Toolmakers
Brewery on their hop quests. Influenced by
heavy metal and with a fondness for IBUs Steel City Brewing like to educate
their drinkers on both fronts – look out for one off specials such as ‘Angel of
Death’ using Mosaic and Galaxy hops and ‘In the Nightside Eclipse’ a black
IPA.
Whether you make reference to the
cuckoo bird or a nomadic gypsy in terms of this brewing phenomenon one
component should far outweigh – that of transparency. Unlike the cuckoo the
brewer should openly share the origin and the ingredients. Itinerant brewer, Mikkel
Borg Bjergsø from Danish brewery Mikkeller
appears to revel in brewing across Scandinavia and the world having produced
over 200 one off special brews since 2007. Each brew intricately planned
pushing the boundaries on flavour and style – really just brewing the beer
Mikkel likes. He’s collaborated with Indiana based ‘Zombie Dust’ pale ale
making 3 Floyds,
uncompromisable Norwegian brewery Nogne,
smoked imperial chilli stout Dutch hitters De
Molen and Scottish penguin lovers Brewdog. Beers include ‘Beer Geek Breakfast’ an
oatmeal coffee stout 7.5% to ‘Wild Winter Ale’ a wild yeast brew with cinnamon
and apples 6% and ‘SpontanKriek’ a gueuze-style wild yeast beer with the
addition of sour cherries 7.7%.
If a beer is thrilling the taste buds,
I won’t be spending my time over analysing the brewer’s ownership of the vessels
that unified those miniscule particles of matter.
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